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Following on the success of her books on Brunello di Montalcino, renowned author and wine critic Kerin O'Keefe takes readers on a historic and in-depth journey to Piedmont to discover Barolo and Barbaresco, two of Italy's most fascinating and storied wines. In this groundbreaking new book, O'Keefe gives a comprehensive overview of the stunning side-by-side growing areas of these two world-class wines that are separated only by the city of Alba and profiles a number of the fiercely individualistic winemakers who create structured yet elegant and complex wines of remarkable depth from Italy's most noble grape, Nebbiolo.
A masterful narrator of the aristocratic origins of winemaking in this region, O'Keefe gives readers a clear picture of why Barolo is called both the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings. Profiles of key Barolo and Barbaresco villages include fascinating stories of the families, wine producers, and idiosyncratic personalities that have shaped the area and its wines and helped ignite the Quality Wine Revolution that eventually swept through all of Italy.
The book also considers practical factors impacting viticulture and enology in the Langhe region, including climate change, destructive use of harsh chemicals in the vineyards versus the gentler treatments used for centuries, the various schools of thought regarding vinification and aging, and expansion and zoning of vineyard areas. Readers will also appreciate the author's numerous tasting notes, a helpful vintage guide to Barolo and Barbaresco and a glossary of useful Italian wine terms.
List of Illustrations
Preface
Introduction: Barolo and Barbaresco, the Pride of Piedmont
PART ONE
THE PLACE, THE GRAPE, THE HISTORY, AND THE WINE
1 The Ancient Origins of the Langhe Hills
2 Noble Nebbiolo
3 The King of Wines, the Wine of Kings
4 The Barolo Wars and Their Effect on Both Denominations
5 Expansion, Subzones, and the Future of Barolo and Barbaresco
PART TWO
PROFILES OF KEY BAROLO PRODUCERS BY VILLAGE
6 Barolo and Novello
7 Castiglione Falletto
8 Serralunga d'Alba
9 La Morra and Cherasco
10 Monforte d'Alba
11 Verduno, Grinzane Cavour, Roddi, and Diano d'Alba
PART THREE
PROFILES OF KEY BARBARESCO PRODUCERS BY VILLAGE
12 Barbaresco: From Domizio Cavazza to Subzones
13 (Village of) Barbaresco
14 Neive
15 Treiso and San Rocco Seno d'Elvio
16 Wineries in Alba and outside of Barolo/Barbaresco Villages
Appendix A. Vintage Guide to Barolo and Barbaresco
Appendix B. Barolo and Barbaresco at a Glance, with a guide to the officially recognized vineyard areas or menzioni geografiche aggiuntive
Notes
Acknowledgments
- Sales Rank: #67675 in Books
- Published on: 2014-10-17
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.00" h x .90" w x 6.00" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 386 pages
Review
"She is eminently qualified for such a book...It's a very useful tome to have to hand: measured, informative and very readable. I thoroughly recommend it", Nicolas Belfrage MW, The World of Fine Wine, Issue 48 2015
"The great wines of Italy's Piedmont have become important enough that it's surprising a book like Kerin O'Keefe's "Barolo and Barbaresco" hasn't appeared before. But O'Keefe, Italian editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, delivers an essential resource, with an invaluable level of both narrative and detail. O'Keefe covers most major producers and a good number of minor ones, and offers some long-needed organization of the Langhe's geography.", Jon Bonné, San Francisco Chronicle
"I would have welcomed O'Keefe's profiles when I started my Barolo Odyssey. Her accurate profiles of producers I know make me want to explore producers profiled that I have not encountered. The strength of this book is that it gives a detailed coherent account of the present and immediate past of Barolo and Barbaresco. This is a complicated story that O'Keefe has researched very effectively as a professional journalist. ...This is a well-told, unique story of two of the greatest of wines anywhere." Prof. Charles S. Taylor, Journal of Wine Research, Feb. 2015
"Rich with history, overviews of terroir, and of course producer profiles, this is a must have book for any Piedmont enthusiast", Gregory Dal Piaz, snooth.com
"...the Italian Editor of Wine Enthusiast is back completing the holy trinity of Italy's great wines with a focus on Barolo and Barbaresco. And, once again, she's in terrific form....This is another fine study from one of the great wine commentators on Italy and is in the frame for wine book of the year.", Paul O'Doherty, JancisRobinson.com, Jan. 2 2015
"[A]n essential reference, with an invaluable level of both narrative and detail."--Jon Bonne"San Francisco Chronicle" (10/05/2014)"
"O'Keefe's breezy, often enthusiastic prose, combines solid background information with personal appraisals of many producers. Kerin O'Keefe has written an informative work that will enlighten most readers to the beauty of these wines and the lofty goals of their producers. Barolo and Barbaresco brings the wines of kings and queens closer to an appreciative audience."--Joel Butler MW"International Wine Review" (10/22/2014)
"Essential and timely. . . . Read the book. Pull some corks. And start plotting an itinerary for a visit to the region."--Tyler Colman"Dr. Vino" (11/06/2014)
"Ms. O'Keefe, who wrote a similar guide to Brunello di Montalcino in 2012, is thorough and authoritative. She is a critic in the best sense of the word, not shy with her opinions, which she offers without polemics or bluster. This book is not for novices; readers are expected to have an understanding of how wine is farmed and produced. But for those who have delved into Barolo and Barbaresco and want to know more about where the wines are made, the people who make them and the differences in terroirs, this book is inspiring and essential." - The Best Wine Books of 2014--Eric Asimov"New York Times" (12/04/2014)
"Barolo and Barbaresco is unique. . . . Although it is thorough and traditionally organized for the most part, her selection of newer, less-known, up and coming producers adds a creative touch that you don t find in most wine books. . . . O Keefe s book is a tour de force, a magnificent, comprehensive tome that required loads of research."--Ed McCarthy"Wine Review Online" (09/09/2014)"
"In some ways, the greatness of Barolo and its sibling, Barbaresco, while long accepted, is only beginning to be understood. Partly, this is because clear and precise appellations, so integral to understanding Burgundy, are lacking for Barolo. It s left to consumers to research and understand the differences among the various sub-zones. One new resource that will be a great help is Kerin O Keefe s authoritative 'Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine.' --Eric Asimov"New York Times" (10/17/2014)"
"O Keefe s breezy, often enthusiastic prose, combines solid background information with personal appraisals of many producers. Kerin O Keefe has written an informative work that will enlighten most readers to the beauty of these wines and the lofty goals of their producers. Barolo and Barbaresco brings the wines of kings and queens closer to an appreciative audience."--Joel Butler MW"International Wine Review" (10/22/2014)"
"Ms. O Keefe, who wrote a similar guide to Brunello di Montalcino in 2012, is thorough and authoritative. She is a critic in the best sense of the word, not shy with her opinions, which she offers without polemics or bluster. This book is not for novices; readers are expected to have an understanding of how wine is farmed and produced. But for those who have delved into Barolo and Barbaresco and want to know more about where the wines are made, the people who make them and the differences in terroirs, this book is inspiring and essential." - The Best Wine Books of 2014--Eric Asimov"New York Times" (12/04/2014)"
"Barolo and Barbaresco. . . had me reaching for words such as 'definitive' and even 'magisterial'. Don't let those rather pompous words put you off it's a good read, too." - Books of the Year 2014--Henry Jeffreys"The Independent" (12/04/2014)"
"An accessible and informed orientation to two of Italy's greatest wines . . . this book is a significant contribution to the English-language literature of Italian wine."--K.L. Ames"CHOICE" (05/01/2015)
"O Keefe is a rare journalist who does the work to flesh out what 'sense of place' means. She goes out into the vineyards of the greatest wine region in Italy. Her hands and her boots are marked by the marl and the clay and the grasses. That dedication pours forth in her writing, which is neither ostentatious nor hesitant to focus on subtle-but-important differences of place."--Evan Dawson"Palate Press" (06/24/2015)"
From the Inside Flap
"Part narrative history, part guidebook, Kerin O’Keefe’s exuberant engagement of the Italian Piedmont’s 'royal' oenological culture further illuminates the ways in which horticulture, geography, and good old-fashioned local characters intersect to produce some of the world’s best wines. Barolo and Barbaresco is not just a compelling read, it also reveals itself to be essential." --Matthew Gavin Frank, author of Barolo and Preparing the Ghost.
"'This book impressed me from the start with its authority and thoroughness and real passion for the wines. Barolo and Barbaresco will be the definitive book on the subject for years to come. Serious people in the wine trades, sommeliers, candidates for Master of Wine or Master Sommelier, collectors, and just plain Nebbiolo aficionados will be unable to do without it." --Tom Maresca, author Mastering Wine and The Right Wine
"An up-to-date, authoritative book on the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco is long overdue, and Kerin O'Keefe's thorough treatment of the subject is very welcome. As an importer with a particular interest in Piedmontese wines, I find the book stimulating, enlightening and very useful." --Oliver McCrum, Oliver McCrum Wines
About the Author
Kerin O'Keefe is Italian Editor for Wine Enthusiast. According to the New York Times: "Ms. O'Keefe is thorough and authoritative. She is a critic in the best sense of the word, not shy with her opinions, which she offers without polemics or bluster."
From 2002 to 2013 she wrote regularly on Italian wine for Decanter and from 2005 for The World of Fine Wine. She was also Contributing Editor for The Wine News from 2003 to 2009. O'Keefe is the author of Franco Biondi Santi - the Gentleman of Brunello, a recipient of a Gourmand Wine Books Award. She also won the Premio Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino in 2008 for her cover article "Brunello de-con-structed" in the Oct-Nov 2007 issue of The Wine News.
Her latest books are Brunello di Montalcino - Understanding and Appreciating One of Italy's Greatest Wines (University of California Press, 2012) and Barolo and Barbaresco - The King and Queen of Italian Wine (University of California Press, 2014).
Most helpful customer reviews
12 of 12 people found the following review helpful.
it has instantly become one of my favorite books on wine
By Angel Loureiro
I pre-ordered this book with high expectations, and this engaging, clearly written, and highly informative gem has surpassed them. Actually, it has instantly become one of my favorite books on wine.
Kerin O’Keefe does a magnificent job at combining detailed and complex information about geology, history, traditions and local people’s opinions with an in-depth review of the wineries she most admires. She clearly, and refreshingly, states that her preference is for traditional Baroli—wines made with extended macerations and aged in very large oak barrels. Nonetheless, she still presents differing opinions about the meaning of “tradition” in Barolo and Barbaresco, and features a number of producers who use barriques or 500-litter barrels in their cellars either because they have had a significant role in the history of Barolo and Barbaresco production, or because she thinks they produce good wines, even if their style is not her preferred one. Too many wine critics refuse to differentiate in their writings between radically different styles of wines elaborated with the same grape and in the same area, and as a result their reviews and opinions end up being useless for a reader inclined to discriminate between different styles.
It is admirable, and very courageous on the author’s part, to leave out of her book or confine to a list of “Other wineries of note”, with no further review, some famous producers whose wines she doesn’t seem to find as convincing as the ones she reviews in detail. Conversely, it is very useful for the consumer her emphasis on “little gems”—mostly small, little known producers whose wines she lovingly reviews, and whose fame--and prices—seem to be well below what they arguably deserve.
I am a lover of Barolo and Barbaresco, and have travelled to the area on three occasions, staying there for several days and visiting many wineries. Still, through this book I have discovered a number of small producers I had never heard of, especially in the Barbaresco area. I can’t wait to purchase their wines, and if you care about wine, and particularly about Barolo and Barbaresco, you shouldn’t wait to buy this admirable book. Five stars plus.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
O'Keefe provides a nice summary of the whole history of "modern vs
By Wanda Diaz
It's a very well written, thorough and balanced overview of the wines, their territory, the history and the producers.
O'Keefe provides a nice summary of the whole history of "modern vs. traditional" in a balanced way. She also did an excellent job explaining the recent laws on naming wines and boundaries of vineyards (menzioni geografiche). In the appendix there is list of such menzioni geografiche (with her favorite ones in bold) and in the text there are black and white maps by village which are very useful. I just wished they were in color but she suggests to get the official maps from the Consorzio which highlight the menzioni geografiche (also available in PDF format from their web site). I found those maps very useful and referenced to them while reading the book.
There are lots of details about the producers, their cellar practices and their vineyards that I did not know, even the ones I am most familiar with. Her stance is laid out very clearly in the introduction. She considers international-styled Barolo and Barbaresco a distortion and she profiles instead those producers making wines that provide for authenticity of Nebbiolo expression. I was particularly interested in her reviews of producers, with a number of smaller producers that I've never heard before.
Definitely a must-have for Piedmont fans.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
A Compelling Book!
By M
Author Kerin O’Keefe, who has covered Italian wine for years for Decanter, World of Fine Wine and Wine Enthusiast, has written a compelling book about one of the world’s greatest wine producing areas. Incredibly, it’s the first book of its kind, in English anyway, on Italy’s most famous wines, Barolo and Barbaresco. And the timing is perfect because the wines are booming in the US. This guidebook contains all the in-depth information you’ll ever need to understand the area and the wines: from intricate information on soil to cellar practices and grape growing. She also does a great job at making even technical subjects, like extended maceration times, seem interesting. I found the numerous producer profiles of her favorite wineries helpful. Even though I thought I knew a lot about the top winemakers, there are so many new estates here, at least new to me, that I’m really excited about discovering what she calls little known gems. She also adds a vintage chart and a guide to the best vineyard sites. I’m sure I’ll be referring to this book over and over again for years to come.
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