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Veteran food writer Linda Lau Anusasananan opens the world of Hakka cooking to Western audiences in this fascinating chronicle that traces the rustic cuisine to its roots in a history of multiple migrations. Beginning in her grandmother’s kitchen in California, Anusasananan travels to her family’s home in China, and from there fans out to embrace Hakka cooking across the globe—including Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, Canada, Peru, and beyond. More than thirty home cooks and chefs share their experiences of the Hakka diaspora as they contribute over 140 recipes for everyday Chinese comfort food as well as more elaborate festive specialties.
This book likens Hakka cooking to a nomadic type of “soul food,” or a hearty cooking tradition that responds to a shared history of hardship and oppression. Earthy, honest, and robust, it reflects the diversity of the estimated 75 million Hakka living in China and greater Asia, and in scattered communities around the world—yet still retains a core flavor and technique. Anusasananan’s deep personal connection to the tradition, together with her extensive experience testing and developing recipes, make this book both an intimate journey of discovery and an exciting introduction to a vibrant cuisine.
- Sales Rank: #312864 in Books
- Published on: 2012-10-08
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.00" h x .90" w x 7.00" l, 1.80 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 312 pages
Review
"A documentation of how a cuisine has adapted to its surroundings, a fusion food out of necessity. . . . Worth a read."--Martha Cheng"Honolulu Magazine" (11/09/2012)
"[A] fascinating journey. . . . [the book] offers a unique look at what has been called 'the Gypsy cuisine of China.'"--John Lekich"Books To Cooks.com" (11/15/2012)
A documentation of how a cuisine has adapted to its surroundings, a fusion food out of necessity. . . . Worth a read. --Martha Cheng"Honolulu Magazine" (11/09/2012)"
[A] fascinating journey. . . . [the book] offers a unique look at what has been called the Gypsy cuisine of China. --John Lekich"Books To Cooks.com" (11/15/2012)"
From the Inside Flap
“Linda Anusasananan has written a remarkable cookbook, weaving together a poignant memoir and an in-depth exploration of Hakka cuisine. This work is an essential for any Asian cookbook library.” –Grace Young, author of Stir-Frying to the Sky's Edge
“Linda Lau Anusasananan’s heartfelt and honest tribute to the cuisine of her heritage illuminates how Hakka foodways deliciously endure and evolve in the face of transnational migration. In this era of fusion and local cooking, this is the real deal. The marvelous recipes inspire readers to dive in and explore.” –Andrea Nguyen, author of Into the Vietnamese Kitchen and Asian Tofu
“This beautifully written culinary gem illuminates the haunting history and culture of the Hakka, or the ‘guest’ people of China. Told as a personal journey, Linda Anusasananan’s cookbook presents a brilliant exploration of the inherent link between Hakka food and familial spirit; together these family recipes convey the simple, rustic and tasty flavor profile of a cuisine that has been long overlooked. This is more than just another cookbook.” –Joyce Jue, author of Savoring Southeast Asia
“We are fortunate to finally have a long-overdue Hakka cookbook. This lovely, well-researched book is loaded with flavorful, homespun foods from Hakka families around the world. It is the essential guide to Hakka culture and cuisine, filled with delicious, easy-to-prepare, healthful recipes.” –Jacqueline M. Newman, editor-in-chief of Flavor and Fortune
“A delicious food memoir balanced with personal anecdotes, history, and easy-to follow recipes, The Hakka Cookbook will delight any palate, from the connoisseur to the novice cook who wants to explore the unique cuisine of the Hakka people. Make room on the shelf for this must-have, well researched tome and let expert food writer Linda Lau Anusasananan guide you though her lifelong love affair with the cuisine she grew up with.” –Corinne Trang, author of Noodles Every Day and Essentials of Asian Cuisine
About the Author
Linda Lau Anusasananann was recipe editor and food writer for Sunset Magazine for 34 years. She also served as a special consultant to cookbooks such as Sunset Chinese, Sunset Oriental, Sunset Wok, Sunset Seafood, and Sunset Pasta. She was the president of the Association of Chinese Cooking Teachers and president of the San Francisco Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier. Artist Alan Lau wrote and illustrated Blues and Greens, a Produce Worker's Journal.
Most helpful customer reviews
17 of 17 people found the following review helpful.
So nearly a five star review
By Autamme_dot_com
This is an interesting book on many levels. Firstly one explaining and sharing much of the Hakka ("guest people") cuisine from China and secondly for being inspired by cuisine from Hakka-families around the world, sharing cultural infusion and styles along the way.
Beginning with a very detailed, yet easy-to-read, explanation about the who, what and why behind Hakka, which helps shine light on a relatively unknown element of Chinese culture and life, the book then gives a detailed look at the cuisine that defines Hakka. Mixing in fact, the author's own journey and, of course, experiences and dishes from around the world, the author mixes information together with the textual dexterity equivalent of a master chef, adding fine flavourings, textures and colour to make an incredibly powerful dish (book).
This does feel like a book you should not rush. In some ways it does not matter if you never will cook a single recipe from it, yet it would be a shame. As you read through the book you can begin to understand that not all "foreign" food is, in fact, that foreign what you look at it. Sure, localised spices, ingredients and influences prevail, but not to the extent of being totally alien and unrecognisable. Just taking one dish at random from the book "five-spice potatoes and Chinese bacon", said to be a Hakka version of meat and potatoes. Arrowhead (a crunchier, slightly bitter potato equivalent) can be used when available or, of course potatoes). A thicker sauce, a smokey-sweet-spicy bacon and a few spices. A different dish but then again not a radically different dish.
There is so much more to this book than just the 140-odd recipes. Personal stories, cultural references and fusional changes are all mixed in and around the recipes. Blink and you might miss a nugget or two of great information. The recipes themselves are very well written, detailed, explanatory and draw you in just by their descriptions alone. It would have been wonderful to have had colour photographs of the dishes - the omission of this is probably the only criticism here. Minor grumbles such as the lack of metric measures alongside their imperial counterparts (sticking a conversion table at the back is not the same) and a typical preparation/cooking time estimation are valid but the book's overall "wow!" factor manages to hide these things in the shadows. Just the lack of photographs take away a few exclamation marks from wow! One can just imagine how this would be with some scene-setting photographs of Chinese culture and each and every dish. It would easily be worth adding a few dollars to the price.
A detailed bibliography (for further reading) and a very comprehensive index round off this book. As it is, this book just squeezes in to get a five YUM (star) rating. With the aforementioned photography it would have been a slam dunk five YUM (and can we add a gold star?) rating, no doubt about it.
9 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
A history lesson on my people + food
By vyk
This rating is short of 5 stars due to the lack of pictures. I think this book would be taken to the next level if there were drool-worthy pictures in it. I do love the way this is written, from a historical perspective of the Han and Hakka peoples. My mom and her siblings are the last ones in our family to speak and understand Hakka, let alone cook amazing, hearty Hakka food. I bought this book to cherish some of the recipes that I ate growing up as a child. Highly recommend!
12 of 14 people found the following review helpful.
Popo's cookbok
By Tinker
My Hakka grandmother taught me by 'feel this' 'should taste like this.' This cookbook puts the recipes down so I can follow without having to rely on my memory. Plus, the history, culture, and stories are great! Lovely drawings, helpful tips. Makes me homesick for Popo's cooking. Thank you Linda for writing this
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